Vietnamese cooking is varied and usually very good. It is a mixture of Vietnamese, Chinese and French traditions, with a plethora of regional specialities. As in all countries of the region, rice or noodles usually provide the basis of a meal. Not surprisingly, fish is plentiful.
National specialities:
• Breakfast is generally noodle soup locally known as pho (pronounced ‘fur’).
• French-style baguettes are available throughout Vietnam.
• Nem (pork mixed with noodles, eggs and mushrooms wrapped in rice paper, fried and served hot).
• Banh chung (glutinous rice, pork and onions wrapped in large leaves and cooked for up to 48 hours, to be eaten cold at any time).
• Vietnamese dishes are not complete without nuoc mam (a fish sauce) or mam tom (a shrimp sauce).
National drinks:
• Green tea is refreshing and available everywhere.
• The French culinary legacy embraces rich, fresh, filter coffee, usually brewed on the table in front of the customer.
• Bia Hoi, a local draught beer available at street stalls in Hanoi. It is not only cheap, but free of additives.
• Rice wine is also a favourite throughout the country. It is generally extremely potent.
Tipping: Tipping is not customary, but is becoming more usual in tourist areas, especially in the south. Upscale restaurants and hotels may add a 5 to 10 per cent service charge to the bill. Taxi drivers do not expect to be tipped.

Local specialities include lacquer painting, reed mats, embroidery, tailor-made ao dais (female national costume) and mother-of-pearl inlay on ornaments and furniture, not to mention the ubiquitous conical hat. Shopping hours: Daily 0800/0830-2100/2200.