‘Roman remains, French sophistication, yet totally Tunisian’

For such a tiny country – the smallest in North Africa – Tunisia packs a lot in. It is a truly kaleidoscopic nation, ranging from Mediterranean beaches to the Sahara desert, from ancient souks to Star Wars film sets. This Arab-Berber nation is one of the most liberal in the Islamic world; alcohol is freely available and women need not feel intimidated.

The capital, Tunis, reflects the country’s diversity. Its French colonial past has a far-reaching influence (it only gained independence in 1956), most obviously in its cuisine that blends sophisticated French styles with Arab spice. Older history is evident in the remains of what was Roman Carthage, while the Roman ruins at Dougga and El Jem are some of the finest in Africa.

Despite its location, edging the Sahara, Tunisia is a surprisingly fertile land. It has six National Parks; that around Lac Ichkeul is one of only two UNESCO-protected Biosphere Reserves in the world. If you’re feeling energetic, the view from the near-deserted village of Takrouna over the mountainous north is stunning. Alternatively, visit a central desert oasis like Zaafrane, Tozeur or Kebili with its hot pools. Finally, when you tire of culture, history and nature, simply lie on the beach and relax at some point along its 1400km (875 miles) stretch of Mediterranean coastline.

Mike Gerrard

North Africa.

GMT + 1.

163,610 sq km (63,170 sq miles).

10.7 million (official estimate 2005).

63 per sq km.

Tunis. Population: 700 thousand (official estimate 2003 [excluding suburbs]).

The Republic of Tunisia lies on the Mediterranean coast of Africa, 130km (80 miles) southwest of Sicily and 160km (100 miles) due south of Sardinia. It is bordered by Algeria to the west and Libya to the southeast. The landscape varies from the cliffs of the north coast to the woodlands of the interior, from deep valleys of rich arable land to desert, and from towering mountains to salt pans lower than sea level. South of Gafsa and Gabès is the Sahara desert. The 1100km (700 miles) of coastline is dotted with small islands, notably Jerba in the south and Kerkennah in the east, and from the northwest to the southeast the coastline is backed successively by pine-clad hills, lush pasture, orchards, vineyards and olive groves.

Republic since 1959. Gained independence from France in 1956. Head of State: President Zine Al-Abidine Ben Ali since 1987. Head of Government: Prime Minister Mohamed Ghannouchi since 1999. Recent history: Celebrating 50 years of independence from France during 2006, Tunisia has so far had only two Presidents. The ‘Founding Father’ of the independent country, Habib Bourgiba, ruled from 1956 until he was judged senile and unable to continue in power in 1987, when the current incumbent, Zine El Abidine Ben Ali assumed power in a bloodless coup. The Rassemblement Constitutionel Démocratique (RCD) continues to hold a substantial majority in the Majlis al-Nuwaab (Chamber of Deputies). A Presidential poll was held in March 1994 and Ben Ali was ‘re-elected’ with 99.9 per cent of the vote. At legislative elections held at the same time, half of the 19 seats reserved for the opposition were allocated to the Democratic Socialists and the others divided between the Mouvement de la Renovation (formerly the Communists), the Parti de l'Unité Populaire and the Union Démocratique Unioniste. The 1999 Presidential vote produced a similar result, giving Ben Ali a third consecutive term. Strictly speaking, a fourth term was forbidden by the constitution but a Referendum in 2002 allowed Ali to stand for up to another two terms. Unsurprisingly, Ali won the controversial fourth term in 2004 with the main opposition party withdrawing two days prior to the vote stating that their participation would only serve to legitimise a rigged election.
Under the 1959 constitution, legislation is the responsibility of the unicameral Chamber of Deputies, whose 163 members are elected by universal adult suffrage for five years. All but 19 seats, which are reserved for opposition parties under a system of proportional representation, are elected under a simple majority system. The President, who is also elected by universal suffrage for a five-year term, is Head of State and appoints a Prime Minister and Council of Ministers who exercise executive power under his leadership. There are also various advisory bodies – the State Council, the Social and Economic Council, the Constitutional Council and the Higher Islamic Council.

The official language is Arabic. French is the second language, Italian is spoken in major cities, and English and German mainly in tourist resorts.

The principal religion is Islam; there are small Roman Catholic, Protestant and Jewish minorities.

220/110 volts AC, 50Hz. A two-pin continental plug/adaptor is needed.

Arabic in culture and tradition, Tunisia is nevertheless one of the more liberal and tolerant Muslim countries. The nomadic Bedouin still follow their traditional way of life in the southern desert. The Tunisians' varied origins are shown in the architecture, crafts, music and regional folk dances. Tunisia has also developed an international reputation as an intellectual and cultural centre. Shaking hands is the usual form of greeting. Hospitality is very important and a small gift in appreciation of hospitality or as a token of friendship is always appreciated. Dress can be informal but should respect the conventions of Islam when visiting religious monuments, ie shoulders and knees must be covered. Outside tourist resorts, scanty beachwear should not be worn.