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Over the last decade or so, the self-styled Land of Smiles has grown from being mainly a backpacker preserve to become one of Asia's most popular tourist and business playgrounds. From its shambolically thrilling capital, Bangkok, through to the epic white sands of some of the world's most beautiful beaches, Thailand manages to cater for many diverse tastes. The difference is today that the elephant treks through the jungle and days spent on palm fringed beaches end more often than not in a sumptuous hotel or spa resort rather than a 'dollar-a-night' beach hut.

Most Thais refer to the capital as 'Krung Thep', the shortened Thai name of a city that actually consists of 32 different words, a fittingly impressive number of monikers for a capital that is one of the world's most eclectic and thrilling. Bangkok is to Thailand what London is to England: the metropole, the hub of business, economic and political affairs. The rapid pace of change and the increasing prosperity that gives the city much of its vibrancy have also caused some problems, with widely reported nightmare traffic congestion and pollution. Over the last few years, the opening of a slick new overland metropolitan railway that enables visitors to glide over the chaotic scenes below, coupled with the cheap and frequent river boats and the reasonably priced air-conditioned taxis, have improved the situation markedly. Through the city flows the Chao Phraya River, on the banks of which can be found some of the best hotels in Bangkok. It is also where visitors will find the Grand Palace which, covering a huge area, is one of the major sites. Here also is Wat Phra Kaeo, a temple complex which houses the Emerald Buddha. This Buddha statue is not covered in emeralds, as the name suggests, but is made of translucent green jade. Upriver from the Grand Palace are the Royal Barges. These richly ornamented barges are still used today for special processions on the Chao Phraya. Within the city limits is a wealth of over 300 Buddhist temple and shrines. Most famous are Wat Benchamabophit (Marble Temple), Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) and Wat Trimit (Temple of the Golden Buddha). One of the largest temple complexes in the country is Wat Pho. Altogether, there are over 30 individual temples scattered here, of which the Temple of the Reclining Buddha is the largest. The Buddha's statue is enormous, an amazing 47.5m (156ft) long and 15m (49ft) high. The gardens surrounding the temples offer an escape from the hectic pace of the big city. The temple also houses the national school for traditional Thai massage. The Floating Market is an interesting place to visit, although it has become more of a tourist attraction than a genuine market for Thais. Other sights include Lak Muang (the city stone), the Erawan Shrine, where local offerings are made daily, and the National Museum. Housed in the Suan Pakkard Palace is a collection of precious antiques. Also interesting is the former home of the American silk-dealer Jim Thompson who vanished without a trace in 1967. Today, the house is a craft museum with a shop selling high-quality silks at reasonable prices. Bangkok's burgeoning nightlife is also a major attraction. The ubiquitous 'girlie bars' of Patpong are notorious, though these days they are tourist friendly, and, beyond these dens, there are new designer bars and slick modern nightclubs, as well as some of the best restaurants in Asia.

Upriver is the old capital of Ayutthaya and the old summer palace at Bang Pa-In. Within its confines are striking structures such as a classic Thai pavilion, a neoclassical palace, a Chinese-style pagoda and a Buddhist temple that resembles a Gothic church. East of Bangkok lies the Ancient City, a vast private park with models, some full sized, some reduced, of most of Thailand's historic monuments and the temple ruins of the Khmer Empire, situated near the Cambodian border. Also just outside the city is the Rose Garden Country Resort with daily performances of Thai music, dance, games and ceremonies.

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In the far north is Thailand's second-largest city and a centre for excursions to the region's ancient and beautiful temples, the teak forests and their working elephants, caves and waterfalls, and journeys to visit the northern hill tribes. The main attractions are the Doi Suthep temple and elephant trekking. Doi Suthep is one of the most famous temples in northern Thailand. Perched high on a hilltop, it offers fine views over the city on clear days. The trip up can either be made via a funicular or a grand staircase with 400 steps. The banisters alone are worth a visit: a giant green-and-red glazed serpent winds its way down to end in a magnificent dragon's head. Elephant trekking in the surrounding countryside has become a big tourist buck earner in the last decade, but visitors should beware that some 'authentic' trips turn out to be just the opposite.

There are many small villages in the area surrounding the city where local handicrafts are produced. In the Mae Sa Valley, there is an elephant training school and, nearby, an orchid farm; longer trips can be made to the Doi Inthanon National Park and to Chiang Rai, from where the Mekong River and the Golden Triangle can be reached. Another interesting route to take is the road to Mae-Hong-Son near the border with Myanmar. It is a good base from which to go trekking or motorcycle touring. On the way round the Mae-Hong-Son loop, it is possible to stop at the small town of Pai, a relaxed and friendly place.

The Central Plains, located between Bangkok and Chiang Mai, form the prosperous heart of the country, a rich environment that has seen the rise and fall of great cities and kingdoms. Phitsanulok makes a convenient base for excursions into the area. The town is also the site of the Wat Phra Si Rattana Mahathat. This important monastery houses the well-known Phra Buddha Chinnarat, reputedly one of the most beautiful Buddha images in Thailand. From Phitsanulok, one can visit the ancient city kingdoms of Kamphaeng Phet and Sukhothai. UNESCO included Sukhothai and its environs on its list of World Heritage Sites. It covers a huge area and includes palaces, temples and pavilions as well as lakes, ponds and canals.

The province of Kanchanaburi is a stunning oasis of jungle-clad hills and sweeping waterways. The town of Kanchanaburi, with its modern hotels and tourist facilities, is the original site of the famous Bridge Over The River Kwai, a place where thousands of allied prisoners of war and Thai forced labourers died at the hands of the Japanese. The train trip, whether on the normal scheduled service or the dedicated tourist services, runs along the 'Death Railway' and across the post-war bridge and is a popular activity.

In the northeast, about three hours by road from Bangkok, is the Khao Yai National Park & Wildlife Reserve. The most popular of the country's national parks, it has been developed into a modest resort. As well as the attractions of the wildlife and jungle, the park can be used as a base to visit the many ancient and historical sites in the northeast of Thailand. There are also some excellent Khmer sites in the northeast, including Lopburi, Phanom Rung and Pimai. The northeast also provides its own special festival celebrations, the most exciting being the elephant roundup at Surin each November.

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Situated in the Eastern Gulf, Pattaya, one of Southeast Asia's most infamous beach resorts, is blighted by excessive development. The quieter nearby resort of Bang Saen is a more salubrious choice. A little further away is Ko Samet, an idyllic island about a 30 minutes' boat ride from Rayong. Two to three hours south of Bangkok are Cha'am and Hua Hin.

Phuket was one of the regions hit by the tsunami in December 2004. Kamala and Patong beaches suffered the worst damage but the clean up process has been excellent. The island of Phuket (attached by a causeway to the mainland) in the southwest corner of the country is one of several resorts on the Indian Ocean. Phuket is now threatening to outstrip Pattaya as the number one beach resort in Thailand. The main town of Patong has a reputation for sex and sleaze, but many of the resort hotels that are dotted around the bountiful beaches of the island are superb. The island is also large enough to accommodate backpacker beach-hut developments alongside the slick luxury hotels. Diving is popular, though visibility can be a problem.

Easily reached from Phuket, this bay boasts one of the world's most stunning seascapes; the area was featured in the James Bond film, The Man with the Golden Gun. Approximately 3500 islands (ko) are scattered in the bay. Though forbidding and seemingly impenetrable from the outside, they harbour a wealth of untouched fauna and flora in their hollow interior. Until recently, they were believed inaccessible from the surrounding sea. There are now canoe trips through tunnels and cracks in the rock, although this is dependent on the prevailing tide.

These idyllic twin islands lie an easy boat trip away from either Phuket or the mainland at Krabi. The largest, Ko Phi Phi Don, is a dumbbell shaped slice of paradise, its coastline fringed with white beaches all around, and its interior clad with tropical rainforest. The only town, Ton Sai, has been largely ruined by uncontrolled tourist development, but much of the rest of the island is still untouched and a number of upscale hotels and resorts inhibit these better-preserved areas. Neighbouring Ko Phi Phi Leh's main claim to fame was that it was controversially used as the setting for the Hollywood blockbuster, The Beach. There is no accommodation on this limestone outcrop, but it makes a perfect day trip from its larger sibling.

Over the last decade or so Ko Samui, once a backpacker's haven, has developed into a more sophisticated beach resort, complete with an airport that offers regular flights to and from Bangkok and Krabi. Ko Samui is Thailand's third-largest island, and although tourism is now the main industry, its lingering rustic charm is summed up by the fact that coconut farming is still a major industry. Chaweng Beach is the island's largest beach and has a number of good hotels as well as groups of bungalows and bars that are ideal for the budget traveller.

Ko Phangan is still relatively undeveloped and is mainly visited by the more adventurous traveller looking to get away from fast food outlets and chain hotels. Each month it hosts all-night full moon beach parties at Had Rin with up to 10,000 revellers frolicking in the moonlit surf in a nefarious festival that attracts everyone from backpackers to the Bangkok young professional set. There are no luxury hotels on the island, but there are plenty of beach hut accommodations dotted in small communities around the island, offering a real escape or the chance to party with other travellers. The only access to Ko Phangan is by boat from Ko Samui or Surat Thani on the mainland.

Ko Tao, which translates as 'Turtle Island', is another less-developed island, but it is becoming increasingly popular as a scuba-diving destination. Ban Mae Hat is the only real town, and it is given over to cheap hotels and dive operators. The diving around Ko Tao is excellent with clean water and good visibility.