Senegal is bordered by Guinea-Bissau, Mali and Mauritania and encloses the confederated state of The Gambia. To the west lies the Atlantic Ocean. On the coast between Dakar and St Louis is a strip of shifting dunes. South of Dakar there are shallow estuaries along the coastline, fringed by palm trees. Dakar, the capital, is a bustling modern city and major port with good restaurants and shops. There is an interesting boat ride to Gorée Island, a former slaving station. St Louis, once Senegal’s capital, is another French fortified settlement from the days of slave trading. There are good beaches. A cruise lasting several days can be made up the Senegal River from here. There are six national parks and four reserves in Senegal, particularly rich in birdlife. The best time for viewing is usually winter: Niokolo Koba and Djoudi are especially recommended. Senegalese dishes include chicken au yassa (chicken with lemon, pimento and onions) and dem à la St Louis (stuffed mullet). Traditional Senegalese festivals are held throughout the year. Cinemas tend to show the latest French language as well as local films.

West Africa.

GMT.

196,722 sq km (75,955 sq miles).

10.6 million (UN, 2005).

53.88 per sq km.

Dakar. Population: 2.51 million (est. 2005).

Senegal is bordered by Guinea Republic and Guinea-Bissau to the south, Mali to the east and Mauritania to the north, and encloses the confederated state of The Gambia. To the west lies the Atlantic Ocean. Most land is less than 100m (330ft) above sea level, except for the Fouta Djallon foothills in the southeast and the Bambouk Mountains on the Mali border. On the coast between Dakar and St Louis is a strip of shifting dunes. South of Dakar there are shallow estuaries along the coastline, which is fringed by palm trees. In the northern part of the country, south of the Senegal Basin, lies the arid Fouta Ferlo, a hot dry Sahelian plain with little vegetation.

Republic since 1963. Gained independence from France in 1960. Head of State: President Abdoulaye Wade since 2000. Head of Government: Prime Minister Macky Sall since 2004. Recent history: The 40-year rule of Senegal's Socialist Party came to a peaceful end in elections in 2000, which were hailed as a rare democratic power transfer on a continent plagued by coups, conflict and election fraud. Veteran opposition leader Abdoulaye Wade won the Presidential elections, and he has since worked with four Prime Ministers. Senegal has had a good record on human rights, but in recent years some concern has been expressed over intimidation of journalists, and over the Ezzam amnesty law, passed on 7 January 2005, which provided for amnesty for politically motivated crimes between 1983 and 2004. President Wade has in recent years sought to strengthen Senegal’s ties with the US. Since 1982, an armed separatist movement in the impoverished Casamance region of southern Senegal, known as the Mouvement des Forces Démocratiques de Casamance, has been fighting for independence. The conflict broke out over claims by the region's people that they were being marginalised by the Wolof, Senegal's main ethnic group. While much of what appears to be rebel activity is no more than banditry, the conflict has claimed hundreds of lives. A ceasefire was announced in December 2004 and a Peace Agreement was signed in early 2005, although there are reports of continuing low level banditry in the Casamance.

The official language is French. There are many local languages, the principal one being Wolof. Other groups include Peul, Serer and Diola.

Around 94 per cent Muslim, 4 per cent Christian (mostly Roman Catholic with some Protestants), and a minority holds traditional beliefs.

230 volts AC, 50Hz.

Greetings are appropriate when coming across local people, especially in the bush, and the visitor should make the effort to learn these in one of the local languages. Handshaking on meeting, regardless of how many times a day one meets the person, is normal. When visiting a village, it is polite to call upon the village headman or schoolteacher to explain that you want to spend the night there or visit the area. They will often act as interpreter and will be helpful guides to the customs of the village and also in terms of money, ensuring that a traveller does not find himself in the embarrassing position of paying for hospitality that was given in friendship. Return hospitality with a gift of medicines, food or money for the community. It is not advisable to give money indiscriminately as tourists have encouraged the practice of begging. Casual wear is widely acceptable. Scanty swimwear should be reserved for the beach. Smoking is prohibited in some public places (especially mosques).