Things to know: There is strict adherence to Islamic laws on the consumption of alcohol, which is available within the limits of religious laws. A permit for alcohol may be necessary, although this may only be valid at international hotels. Certain hotels prohibit the consumption of alcohol by visitors. During the lunar month of Ramadan, smoking and drinking in public is not permitted. Waiter service is usual.
National specialities:
• Dolma (vine leaves, cabbage, lettuce, onions, aubergine, marrow or cucumbers stuffed with rice, meat and spices).
• Tikka (small chunks of mutton on skewers grilled on a charcoal fire).
• Quozi (small lamb boiled whole and grilled, stuffed with rice, minced meat and spices and served on rice) and masgouf (fish from the Tigris, cooked on the river bank).
Tipping: Normal limit is 10 to 15 per cent. Taxi drivers need not be tipped since the fare is agreed before the journey.

Baghdad has nightclubs with cabaret, music and dancing, as do other main towns. There are also cinemas, theatres and bars.

The long-established town markets sell copperware, silver, spices, carpets and brightly coloured rugs. In Baghdad the copper market is a centre of noisy activity with coppersmiths beating their pots into shape. Shopping hours: Sat-Thurs 0830-1300 and 1700-1900.