Rice is the staple food and the Iranians cook it superbly.
Things to know: Most Iranian meals are eaten with a spoon and fork, but visitors may choose a Western dish and eat with a knife and fork. The consumption of alcohol is strictly forbidden.
National specialities:
• Chelo khoresh (rice topped with vegetables and meat in a nut sauce).
• Polo chele (pilau rice), polo sabzi (pilau rice cooked with fresh herbs), polo chirin (sweet-sour saffron-coloured rice with raisins, almonds and orange), adas polo (rice, lentils and meat) and morgh polo (chicken and pilau rice).
• Chelo kababs (rice with skewered meats cooked over charcoal).
• Kofte (minced meat formed into meatballs) and kofte gusht (meatloaf).
• Abgusht (thick stew).
• Khoreshe badinjan (mutton and aubergine stew).
• Mast-o-khier (cold yoghurt-based soup flavoured with mint, chopped cucumber and raisins).
• Dolmeh (stuffed aubergine, courgettes or peppers).
National drinks:
• Fruit and vegetable juices are popular, as are sparkling mineral waters.
• Tea is also popular and drunk in the many tea-houses (ghahve khane).
Tipping: In large hotels, a 10 to 15 per cent service charge is added to the bill. In restaurants (chelokababis) it is usual to leave some small change. Tipping is not expected in tea-houses or small hotels.

While the shops offer a wide selection of quality goods, local items can be bought in the many bazaars. Purchases include hand-carved, inlaid woodwork, carpets, rugs, silks, leather goods, mats, tablecloths, gold, silver, glass and ceramics. Bargaining is customary. There are restrictions on which items may be taken out of the country; see Duty-Free section for details. Shopping hours: Generally 0900-1300 and 1500-2000.