Travellers are forewarned of continual reports of threats of terrorist activity against westerners and western interests in Indonesia.
The last attack took place on 1 October 2005 when at least three bombs exploded in Central Kuta and Jimbaran beach in Bali. There have been a number of deaths and injuries, including foreigners. People intending to travel to Bali should review thoroughly information on the local situation, and ensure they are taking full precautions and following local advice.
All travel to Aceh is advised against, and also some parts of Malukin (especially Ambou) and Sulawesi. For further advice, visitors should contact their local government travel advice department.

‘Fabled isles of sunshine and spices’

The myriad islands of the Indonesian archipelago are strung like beads across the equator. Clear blue seas lap pristine beaches, gentle breezes carry scents of spices and flowers, and divers are entranced by the ocean’s riches. Inland, dramatic volcanic ranges tower above a green mantle of terraced hillsides and lush rainforest.

Bali offers an image of paradise: stunning scenery, gentle sarong-clad people and sunsets of legendary glory. Immerse yourself in the surfing, nightlife and beach-party atmosphere, or discover Ubud’s wealth of traditional arts. On peaceful Lombok, life moves at a slower pace, while bustling Jakarta exhibits Indonesia’s cosmopolitan, modern face.

Komodo Island’s ‘living dinosaurs’ and the entrancing ‘sea gardens’ of Suwalesi invite exploration, as do Borobudur’s architectural treasures, which include 5km (3 miles) of Buddhist relief carvings. Adventure-seekers head for Kalimantan’s remote jungle interior or explore Sumatra, with its teeming wildlife and wealth of tribal groups.

A rich history of kingdoms, conquests, trade and colonialism has bestowed an exhilarating mix of Muslim, Hindu, Buddhist and indigenous tribal culture on the islands, and colourful festivals and ceremonies enliven every season. Indonesia’s unity, however, remains fragile – it is worth checking the current situation before travelling. Despite this, and that the archipelago’s diversity and vast size can appear overwhelming, an unhurried approach will reward you with your own taste of paradise.

Lucy Moss

South-East Asia.

Indonesia spans three time zones:
Java, West and Central Kalimantan and Sumatra: GMT + 7.
Bali, Nusa Tenggara, South and East Kalimantan: GMT + 8.
Irian Jaya and Maluku: GMT + 9.
Indonesia does not operate Daylight-Saving Time.

1,922,570 sq km (742,308 sq miles).

241.9 million (UN estimate 2005).

131 per sq km.

Jakarta (Java). Population: 13.2 million (UN estimate 2005).

Indonesia lies between the mainland of South-East Asia and Australia in the Indian and Pacific oceans. It is the world’s largest archipelago state. Indonesia is made up of five main islands – Sumatra, Java, Sulawesi, Kalimantan (part of the island of Borneo) and Irian Jaya (the western half of New Guinea) – and 30 smaller archipelagos. In total, the Indonesian archipelago consists of about 17,508 islands; 6000 of these are inhabited and stretch over 4828km (3000 miles), most lying in a volcanic belt with more than 300 volcanoes, the great majority of which are extinct. The landscape varies from island to island, ranging from high mountains and plateaux to coastal lowlands and alluvial belts.

Republic. Declared independence from The Netherlands in 1945. Head of State and Government: President Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono since 2004. Recent history: The trigger for the fall of General Suharto, leader of the powerful Indonesian Communist Party (PKI), was the Asian financial crisis of 1997. Suharto’s deputy, Jusuf Habibie, took over until Presidential elections were held under new rules in November 1999; National Assembly elections were held five months earlier, in June. These saw Partai Golongan Karya pushed into second place by the principal opposition party, the Partai Demokrasi Indonesia Perjuangan (PDIP, the Indonesian Democratic Party of Struggle), headed by the daughter of former President Sukarno, Megawati Sukarnoputri. Sukarnoputri was expected to win the November Presidential poll. Instead, she suffered from a lack of support in crucial parts of the new electoral college which now selects the President. Her opponents settled on the veteran cleric Abdurrahman Wahid, leader of the third-largest party in the assembly, the Partai Kebangkitan Bangsa (PKB, National Awakening Party). He garnered sufficient support to defeat Sukarnoputri in the electoral college. Sukarnoputri secured the Vice-Presidency. It was not a good choice. In his first 12 months in office, apparently stricken by inertia and indecisiveness, Wahid proved incapable of tackling the mess left behind by Suharto. In April 2001, Wahid himself was impeached for alleged corruption – a matter of a few million dollars – and by July had been forced out of office. As Vice President, Sukarnoputri took over. Sukarnoputri faced a huge task. The corruption that typified the Suharto regime continued much as before, despite the implication and arraignment of a series of leading political figures. Sukarnoputri was then herself defeated in 2004 and replaced by the new President, Susilo Bambang Yudhoyono. On taking office, the retired general and former security minister vowed to set an ambitious agenda for reform.
The 1000-member People’s Consultative Assembly is the country’s highest political institution. It agrees the broad outlines of state policy and selects the President and Vice-President. Its membership comprises all the members of the National Assembly (see below), representatives of the armed forces, the country’s main political organisations, and delegates from the regions.
The President, who serves a five-year term, holds executive power. The Parliament, the Dewan Perwakilan Rakyat (People’s Representative Assembly), has 500 members. Of these, 462 are directly elected by proportional representation, while the other 38 are appointed as representatives of the army and security forces. Members of the Assembly serve a five-year term.

Bahasa Indonesia is the official national language. It is similar to Malay and written in the Roman alphabet. All together, there are an estimated 583 languages and dialects spoken in the archipelago. Many local languages are further divided by special forms of address depending on social status, and all languages are spoken in a variety of local dialects. English is the most widely used foreign language for business and tourism, and many people in the more remote areas have a basic command of English. The older generation still speaks Dutch as a second language and French is spoken at some of the better hotels and restaurants.

There is a Muslim majority of approximately 90 per cent, with Christian, Hindu (mainly in Bali) and Buddhist minorities. Animist beliefs are held in remote areas.

Generally 220 volts AC, 50Hz, but 110 volts AC, 50Hz, in some rural areas.

Indonesia encompasses at least 583 separate languages and dialects, many of them as different from each other as Welsh is from English. Since independence, many people have developed a strong sense of national pride, and maintain traditions of dance, painting, woodcarving and stonecarving. Social courtesies are often fairly formal. In particular, when drink or food is served, it should not be touched until the host invites the guest to do so. Never pass or accept anything with the left hand. Public displays of affection between men and women are frowned upon and kissing in public will attract a great deal of unwanted attention. Touching a stranger of the same sex while in conversation is very common. Pointing is considered impolite and patting children on the head should be avoided. Indonesians are polite and will extend endless courtesies to visitors whom they trust and like. Smiling is a cultural tradition and Indonesians smile frequently, even in an uncomfortable or difficult situation. Visitors should avoid the temptation of losing their temper. When invited home, a gift is appreciated (as long as it is given with the right hand). Informality is normal, but a few smart establishments encourage guests to dress for dinner. Safari suits are acceptable on formal occasions and for business wear. Muslim customs, especially those concerning female clothes, should be observed.