The unforgettable aroma of India is not just the heavy scent of jasmine and roses on the warm air. It is also the fragrance of spices so important to Indian cooking – especially to preparing curry. The word ‘curry’ is an English derivative of kari, meaning spice sauce, but curry does not, in India, come as a powder. It is the subtle and delicate blending of spices such as turmeric, cardamom, ginger, coriander, nutmeg and poppy seed. Like an artist’s palette of oil paints, the Indian cook has some 25 spices (freshly ground as required) with which to mix the recognised combinations or masalas. Many of these spices are also noted for their medicinal properties and, like the basic ingredients, vary from region to region. Although not all Hindus are vegetarians, vegetable dishes are more common than in Europe, particularly in southern India. Broadly speaking, meat dishes are more common in the north.
Things to know: Bottled water, essential for visitors, is sold everywhere in India, but make sure the bottles are properly sealed. Restaurants have table service and, depending on area and establishment, will serve alcohol with meals. Most Western-style hotels have licensed bars. Visitors will be issued All India Liquor Permits on request by Indian Embassies/High Commissions, Missions or Tourist Offices. Various states impose prohibition but this may change; check with the Tourist Office for up-to-date information. In almost all big cities in India, certain days in the week are observed as dry days when the sale of liquor is not permitted. Tourists may check with the nearest local tourist office for the prohibition laws/rules prevailing in any given state where they happen to be travelling or intend to travel.
National specialities:
• Dal (crushed lentil soup with various additional vegetables).
• Dahi (the curd or yoghurt which accompanies the curry).
• Kulfi (Indian ice cream).
• Rasgullas (cream cheese balls flavoured with rose water).
• Gulab Jamuns (flour, yoghurt and ground almonds).
• Jalebi (pancakes in syrup).
• Fruit – mango, pomegranate, melon, apricot, apple and strawberry.
• Pan (betel leaf in which are wrapped spices such as aniseed and cardamom; it is common to finish the meal by chewing Pan as a digestive).
Regional specialities:
North:
• Rogan josh (curried lamb).
• Gushtaba (spicy meat balls in yoghurt).
• Biryani (chicken or lamb in orange-flavoured rice, sprinkled with sugar and rose water).
• Tandoori cooking (chicken, meat or fish marinated in herbs and baked in a clay oven).
• Kebab.
• Flat breads, such as pooris, chapatis and naan.
South:
• Bhujia (vegetable curry).
• Dosa, idli and samba (rice pancakes, dumplings with pickles, and vegetable and lentil curry).
• Raitas (yoghurt with grated cucumber and mint).
• Coconut is a major ingredient of southern Indian cooking.
West coast:
• Mumbai duck (curried or fried bombloe fish).
• Pomfret (Indian salmon).
• Parsi dhan sak (lamb or chicken cooked with curried lentils).
• Vindaloo.
Bengali:
• Dahi maach (curried fish in yoghurt flavoured with turmeric and ginger).
• Malai (curried prawn with coconut).
National drinks:
• Chai (tea) is India’s favourite drink. It will often come ready-brewed with milk and sugar unless ‘tray tea’ is specified.
• Coffee is increasingly popular.
• Nimbu Pani (lemon drink).
• Lassi (iced buttermilk).
• Coconut milk straight from the nut is cool and refreshing.
• Indian beer (in many varieties).
• Indian-made gin, rum, brandy and wine.
Tipping: Taxis and restaurants do not expect to be tipped, however, hotel and airport porters should be tipped around INR20, and guides and drivers INR100 per day where service is not included (equalling roughly 10 per cent where appropriate).

India has generally little nightlife as the term is understood in the West, although in major cities a few Western-style shows, clubs and discos are being developed. In most places the main attraction will be cultural shows featuring performances of Indian dance and music. The Indian film industry is the largest in the world, now producing three times as many full-length feature films as the USA. Mumbai (Bombay) and Kolkata (Calcutta) are the country’s two ‘Hollywoods’. Almost every large town will have a cinema, some of which will show films in English. Music and dancing are an important part of Indian cinema, combining with many other influences to produce a rich variety of film art. Larger cities may have theatres staging productions of English-language plays.

Indian crafts have been perfected over the centuries, from traditions and techniques passed on from generation to generation. Each region has its own specialities, each town its own local craftspeople and its own particular skills. Silks, spices, jewellery and many other Indian products have long been acclaimed and are widely sought after; merchants would travel thousands of miles, enduring the hardships and privations of the long journey, in order to make their purchases. Nowadays, the marketplaces of the subcontinent are only eight hours away, and for fabrics, silverware, carpets, leatherwork and antiques, India is a shopper’s paradise. Bargaining is expected, and the visitor can check for reasonable prices at state-run emporia. Fabrics: One of India’s main industries is textiles; its silks, cottons, and wools rank amongst the best in the world. Of the silks, the brocades from Varanasi are among the most famous; other major centres include Kanchipuram, Murshidabad, Patna and Surat. Rajasthan cotton with its distinctive ‘tie and dye’ design is usually brilliantly colourful, while Chennai cotton is known for its attractive ‘bleeding’ effect after a few washes. Throughout the country may be found the himroo cloth, a mixture of silk and cotton, often decorated with patterns. Kashmir sells beautiful woollens, particularly shawls. Carpets: India has one of the world’s largest carpet industries, and many examples of this ancient and beautiful craft can be seen in museums throughout the world. Each region will have its own speciality, such as the distinctive, brightly coloured Tibetan rugs, available mainly in Darjeeling. Clothes: Clothes are cheap, and can be quickly tailor-made in some shops. Cloth includes silks, cottons, himroos, brocades, chiffons and chingnons. Jewellery: This is traditionally heavy and elaborate. Indian silverwork is world-famous. Gems include diamonds, lapis lazuli, Indian star rubies, star sapphires, moonstones and aquamarines. Hyderabad is a leading pearl centre. Handicrafts and leatherwork: Each area has its speciality; the range includes bronzes, brasswork (often inlaid with silver), canework and pottery. Woven rugs and papier mâché (some decorated in gold leaf) are a characteristic Kashmir product. Inlaid marble and alabaster are specialities of Agra. Rajasthan is known for its colourful fabrics and silks. Leatherwork includes open Indian sandals and slippers. Woodwork: Sandalwood carvings from Karnataka, rosewood from Kerala and Chennai. Other goods: Pickles, spices, Indian tea, perfumes, soap, handmade paper, Orissan playing cards and musical instruments. Shopping hours: Mon-Sat 0930-1700 in most large stores.

There is a veto on the export of antiques, art objects over 100 years old, animal skins and objects made from skins.