Travellers should avoid border areas with Ethiopia and Sudan, due to political friction. For further advice visitors should contact their local government travel advice department.

Eritrea stretches along the Red Sea, bordering Ethiopia, Djibouti and Sudan. The low-lying coastal area is very humid. The mountainous interior is largely cultivated. Eritrea’s capital, Asmara, was only a small cluster of villages at the beginning of the 19th century. In 1897, the Italian colonial government moved the administration from Massawa. Today, Italian architecture prevails in the city. The magnificent Cathedral (1922), built in the Lombardian style, is not far from a bustling market. The road from Asmara to Massawa, 105km (65 miles) long, is both spectacular and beautiful. It descends from 2438m (8000ft) to sea level, with hairpin bends on the escarpment, and magnificent views over the coastal desert strip. The road also passes the famous Orthodox Monastery of Debre Bizen. North of Massawa is the white sandy beach of Gergussum. It is a good place to sunbathe or swim. The Turkish and Egyptian colonial periods left their legacy in the form of numerous interesting buildings and sites in Agordet (Barka Province), including the tomb of Said Mustafa wad Hasan. Italian cuisine dominates but staple food includes kitcha, a thin bread made from wheat, and injera, a spongy pancake.

Northeast Africa, on the Red Sea coast.

GMT + 3.

121,144 sq km (46,774 sq miles).

4.4 million (UN, 2005).

36.3 per sq km.

Asmara. Population: 435,000 (2005).

Eritrea stretches along the Red Sea for almost 1000km (625 miles). To the south and west it borders Ethiopia, to the southeast Djibouti and to the northwest Sudan. The low-lying coastal area is very humid. The mountainous interior is largely cultivated.

Independent State since 1993. Head of State and Government: President Isaias Afewerki since 1993. Recent history: In the 1990s, Eritrea entered into costly wars with both Yemen and Djibouti. But by far the most serious threat to long-term stability was the unexpected and catastrophic breakdown in relations with neighbouring Ethiopia. Initially, relations were good – but fighting broke out between the two countries in May 1998, ostensibly over minor land disputes and border incursions. Ethiopia was also unhappy with Eritrea’s introduction of its own currency (the Nakfa) in 1997. Eritrea, for its part, voiced fears that its hard-won independence might be infringed upon by an expansionist Ethiopia. Finally, after a two-month spell of heavy fighting, the UN managed to broker a settlement in June 2000. A 4000-strong peacekeeping force UNMEE (UN Mission in Eritrea and Ethiopia) was installed while a permanent solution was sought. This remains elusive. Whilst war has not yet returned, the Government responded drastically to domestic opposition following the war, which alienated many of the new Government’s most important foreign backers, especially in Europe. Within Eritrea, an alliance of a dozen opposition groups has now formed a military wing to pursue their campaign against the Afewerki regime.
The constitution, adopted in May 1997, allows for political pluralism under a presidential system of Government. However, no elections have yet been held and the People’s Front for Democracy and Justice (PFDJ), the political arm of the Eritrean People’s Liberation Front, is the only authorised political party. At present, President Afewerki holds executive power while legislative authority is vested in the 104-member Hagerawi Baito (National Assembly), comprising 60 appointed members and 44 representatives of the PFDJ.

Tigrinya, Tigre, Arabic and English are spoken. English is rapidly becoming the language of business and education.

Roughly half Ethiopian Orthodox Christians and half Muslim, but some have traditional beliefs.

110/220 volts AC; there are occasional power surges.

Shaking hands is the normal form of greeting. Casual tourist wear is suitable for most places, but visitors should dress modestly. For business, a suit is most appropriate. Coffee is a delicacy in Eritrea and to be asked to take coffee is a symbol of hospitality and the way that Eritreans honour their guests. It takes up to an hour for the coffee to be prepared in a coffee ceremony and it is standard practice that you must have three cups and compliment the taste before leaving. Smoking is not popular with traditional or elderly Eritreans. Shoes should be taken off in churches and, particularly, in mosques. Homosexual behaviour is illegal. Photography: It is not permitted to photograph Government or military buildings.