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Chad’s capital is slowly regaining its pre-war reputation as one of Central Africa’s liveliest cities. Bullet holes in buildings serve as a reminder of troubled times, but the atmosphere here is increasingly upbeat. The historic quarter, with its colourful daily market, is fascinating and a good place to pick up colourful Chadian rugs and jewellery. The National Museum has collections of the Sarh culture dating back to the ninth century. There is a distinctive difference between the Arab section of town (very quiet at night) and the area where the southerners live (lively and full of bars).

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This is located on an immense plain, across which the Bahr Salamat and its tributaries flow from north to south. The Government and the EU have restocked and refurbished the park since it was ravaged by civil war and poachers. Visitors can now see huge flocks of elephants, giraffes and lions.

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This was once the centre of Africa’s lucrative salt trade but is now shrinking (literally) and sparsely populated. The lake is best seen during the August to December period, when the water level is highest and the occasional hippo or crocodile can be seen drifting by.

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Situated 550km south of N’Djaména, Sarh is Chad’s second-largest city and has gained a reputation as a strong sugar-cane and cotton-growing region. Things to see include the small National Museum and the Centre Artisanal, where woodcarvings and traditional paintings and embroideries can be purchased.

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Chad’s third-largest city, due to an oil rush from the Doba basin, is known for its Gala Brewery that produces some of the best beer in the country. Although Moundou lies 400km south of the capital, the trip may take up to a day to complete by road.

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Lying 890km east of N’Djaména, Abéché is surrounded by desert. Former capital of the powerful Ouadaï sultanate, the town has retained much of its oriental charm with interesting mosques, cobbled narrow streets and old markets.

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Home of the fierce Toubou tribe, this astonishing region of chasms and crags has seldom been seen by non-Muslims and remains closed to travellers. The range is said to be home to the best racing camels in the world. The inhabitants are distantly related to the Tuareg of the Western Sahara, and were made famous by Herodotus as the ‘Troglodytes’ – stocky but immensely agile cave-dwellers. The highest peak in the range is Emi Koussi at 3414m (11,200ft) above sea level.