Travel to Nagorno-Karabakh, and to the militarily-occupied area around it, is advised against. For further advice, visitors should contact their local government travel advice department. Political rallies or a public gathering of a political nature should be avoided.

Azerbaijan is bordered by the Russian Federation, Georgia and Iran. The country is divided by the Republic of Armenia into a smaller western part in the Lesser Caucasus and a larger eastern part, stretching from the Greater Caucasus to the Mugan, Mili and Shirvan Steppes and bordered by the Caspian Sea in the east. Due mainly to the presence of international oil companies, the standard of accommodation is changing rapidly and there are now at least two 5-star hotels. Within Baku, the medieval walled city – Icheri Sheker – has been restored and it retains a distinctly Middle-Eastern and relaxed atmosphere, with its tea-houses and busy street-life. Its attractive narrow streets and stone buildings spread up from the waterfront, where the 12th-century Maiden’s Tower (Gyz-Galasy) looks out over the bay. Azerbaijani food combines Turkish, Georgian and central Asian elements with lamb as the staple dish. If dining with a local host, visitors should be aware that going to restaurants is treated as much as an opportunity for competitive toasting as to eat and talk. Many restaurants, late-night bars and English-style pubs have opened in Baku, catering largely for the foreign business community and wealthy local business people.

Caucasus, western Caspian Sea region.

GMT + 4.

86,600 sq km (33,400 sq miles).

8,347,000 (official estimate 2005).

90.1 per sq km.

Baku. Population: 1,708,000 (1999).

Azerbaijan is bordered by the Russian Federation, Georgia and Iran, and is divided by the Republic of Armenia into a smaller western part in the Lesser Caucasus and a larger eastern part, stretching from the Greater Caucasus to the Mugan, Mili and Shirvan Steppes and bordered by the Caspian Sea in the east. Its highest peaks are Mount Bazar-Dyuzi (4114m/13,497ft) and Sag-Dag (3886m/12,749ft).

Democratic Republic. Gained independence from the Soviet Union in 1991. Head of State: President Ilham Aliyev since 2003. Head of Government: Prime Minister Artur Rasizada since 2003. Recent history: In October 2003, when Heydar Aliyev won another landslide victory as President, many perceived the electoral process as a sham and corruption was suspected. Only two months later, Aliyev died - his death had long been seen as imminent - in hospital, aged 80, after heart and kidney problems. Ilham, his son, emerged as President in his wake.
Ilham Aliyev managed to unify and stabilise the country but at the price of routine corruption, chronic mismanagement and widespread human rights abuses. However, he also helped forge a greater international reputation for Azerbaijan, of which the discovery of potentially huge offshore oil and gas fields in the Azeri sector of the Caspian Sea was probably a major contributing factor.
In November 2005, the first Parliamentary elections were held in Azerbaijan since 2003. The ruling New Azerbaijan Party won 63 of the 125 seats, according to Azeri officials. However, the elections triggered some contention, with international observers complaining of irregularities in the Parliamentary vote and in vote-counting, and with the main opposition, Azadlyq Bloc, planning street protests in response to this result (they won just five seats). These street protests occurred a short time afterwards in November in the capital, Baku, when around 15,000 and then later 20,000 people, took to the streets, claiming that the elections had been rigged. The so-far peaceful demonstrations were calling for the resignation of President Aliyev. However, President Aliyev has asserted that he will permit no popular revolt, although he has ordered two re-runs and one recount in constituencies following the poll and has also promised to punish those responsible for fraud. It is uncertain whether President Aliyev's words will be matched by affirmative action.
Under its post-independence constitution, legislative power is vested in the 125-member Milli Majlis (National Assembly); 100 members are elected in single-seat constituencies and the remainder by proportional representation. Executive power is held by the President and a Council of Ministers, which the President appoints. Direct presidential and parliamentary elections are held every five years.

Azerbaijani. Russian is widely spoken; English may be spoken in Baku and other main centres.

Mostly Shia Muslim although there are Russian Orthodox and Jewish communities.

220 volts AC, 50Hz.

Visitors to Azerbaijan may find themselves the recipients of an unexpected bounty in the form of gifts of flowers, food and souvenirs. It is therefore advisable to travel equipped with suitable items – consumables or souvenirs – with which to reciprocate. Local women, particularly in rural areas, tend to be extremely retiring. They will serve a meal, but seldom eat with foreign guests. Visitors may present women with flowers, but overenthusiastic attempts to engage them in conversation may cause offence and embarrassment. Foreign women are treated with elaborate courtesy which can develop into excessive attention. It is therefore advisable for women to dress modestly, especially in the rural areas, and cultivate a certain coolness of manner. Still, many local and foreign women dress in western-style clothes and this is seen as perfectly acceptable. Both men and women should, however, avoid wearing shorts as this will attract unwelcome attention. Although mostly Muslim in population, Azerbaijan is a largely secular society that views religion as a private matter. Handshaking is the normal form of greeting. Business cards are invariably exchanged at any kind of official meeting, and not infrequently on first meeting socially as well.