The ancient country of Armenia lies on the southern slope of the Armenian Mountains in the Lesser Caucasus, bordered by Georgia, Turkey, Azerbaijan and Iran. Yerevan, the capital of Armenia, is one of the oldest cities in the world, founded nearly 2800 years ago during the time of ancient Babylon. Most of the old town was demolished in the 1930s, ostensibly to upgrade standards of public health. Rebuilt, its architecture is solid, sometimes imposing and essentially Soviet in character. Lake Sevan, 70km (43 miles) east of Yerevan, is the largest lake in the Caucasus, much praised for its pure waters, stunning setting and delicious salmon trout. Armenian cooking is based on lamb, either grilled and served as shashlik with flat bread, or prepared as soup (bozbash) or stew. Armenian brandies are excellent. Locals are proud to inform visitors that Winston Churchill always insisted on Armenian in preference to French brandy. Restaurants and nightclubs are increasing in number, especially in Yerevan. Opera, theatre and ballet performances are cheap and of a high standard.

Caucasus, east of Turkey.

GMT + 3 (GMT + 4 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).

29,743 sq km (11,484 sq miles).

3.3 million (official estimate 2002).

111.9 per sq km.

Yerevan. Population: 1.2 million (official estimate 1999).

Armenia lies on the southern slopes of the Armenian Mountains in the Lesser Caucasus and is bordered by Georgia, Turkey, Azerbaijan and Iran. Its highest peak is Mount Aragats, 4090m (13,415ft), and even its deepest valleys lie 450 to 700m (1200 to 1870ft) above sea level. Its biggest lake is Lake Sevan in the east.

Republic. Gained independence from the Soviet Union in 1991. Head of State: President Robert Kocharyan since 1998. Head of Government: Prime Minister Andranik Markaryan since 2000. Recent history: At the most recent poll on March 2003, Robert Kocharyan faced a major challenge from Stepan Demirchian standing on an anti-corruption platform. He nevertheless comfortably won the first round. Kocharyan won further second-round elections, although Parliamentary elections fell short of international standards and a referendum rejected early constitutional amendments concerning the role of Parliament. In early 2004, thousands of opposition supporters marched against the President and allegations of corruption still persist.
A new constitution was adopted in 1995, allowing for a directly elected legislature and Presidency. The former, the Azgayin Zhogov, has 131 members elected for a four-year term – 75 are chosen from single-seat constituencies; the remaining 56 by proportional representation. The executive President, who selects a Council of Ministers, subject to approval by the legislature, also serves a four-year term.

Armenian. Russian is usually understood, but rarely used; Kurdish is sometimes used in broadcasting as 56,000 Kurds inhabit Armenia.

94 per cent Armenian Apostolic Church, with Catholic and Protestant communities and a Russian Orthodox minority. Armenia is the oldest Christian nation in the world, its conversion dating from the year AD 301. The Armenian Apostolic Church developed separately from both the Catholic and Orthodox branches of Christianity.

220 volts AC, 50Hz. European plugs with two round pins are used.

Almost all entertaining takes place in private homes, and guests may find themselves subjected to overwhelming hospitality and generosity, as well as being expected to eat enormously and participate in endless toasts. Visitors invited to an Armenian’s home should arrive bearing some kind of small gift, such as flowers and alcohol (preferably imported) or chocolates. Handshaking is the normal form of greeting. Business cards are invariably exchanged at any kind of official meeting and not infrequently on first meeting people socially as well. Conversation tends to be highly politicised, and guests may be well advised to avoid expressing strong opinions. Homosexuality is now decriminalised but is still an unacceptable lifestyle for many Armenians, and discretion should be exercised when in public. Women tend to be less retiring than in nearby Muslim countries, and can usually dress in normal western-style clothing (especially in the capital), although female visitors may wish to avoid wearing short skirts and shorts. Photography: Refrain from photographing sites such as military bases equipment and installations. Also be aware of cultural sensitivities when photographing churches and other religious sites.