Numerous restaurants have opened in recent years, but many people retain the habit of dining at hotels. There is a wide variety of cuisine on offer, including Arabic, Indian, Oriental, European and other international dishes. Coffee houses are popular.

Things to know: Waiter service is usual. Muslim law forbids alcohol, but most hotel bars and restaurants serve alcohol. Visitors are only allowed to drink alcohol in licensed hotels and restaurants. To buy alcohol for home consumption, Western nationals must obtain a licence from their embassy.

National specialities:
• Shuwa (meat cooked slowly (up to two days) in underground clay ovens with herbs and spices).
• Mashuai (spit-roasted kingfish served with lemon rice).
• Maqbous (rice dish with saffron cooked over spicy red or white meat).
• Halwa (sticky, sweet, gelatinous substance made from brown sugar, eggs, honey and spices).
• Lokhemat (balls of flour and yeast flavoured with cardamom and deep fried, served with sweet lime and cardamom syrup).

National drinks:
• Kahwa (coffee; a strong, bitter drink flavoured with cardamom, served with halwa and lokhemat).

Tipping: Becoming more common; 10% should be given.

There are a few nightclubs and bars in Muscat, mostly in the hotels. There are three air conditioned cinemas in Ruwi and an open-air cinema at the al-Falaj Hotel showing Arab, Indian and English films.

The modern shops are mostly in Ruwi and Qurum. The two main souks (markets) are located in Matrah and Nizwa. Traditional crafts include silver and gold jewellery, khanjars (Omani daggers), coffeepots, saddles, frankincense, handwoven textiles, carpets, baskets and camel straps. Antique khanjars (over 50 years old) may not be exported. It is wise to check with the Ministry of National Heritage and Culture for the necessary documentation before purchasing.

Shopping hours: Sat-Thurs 0800-1300 and 1600-2000. Souks open 0800-1100 and 1600-1900. Many shops close on Friday. Opening hours are one hour later during Ramadan.