Kuwait consitutes a puzzling but intriguing mix of Western liberalism and strict Islam. The capital, Kuwait City, is a bustling metropolis full of the high-rise buildings and luxury hotels. Yet the country is also host to elaborate and opulent mosques and palaces, and its religion is an integral part of its affairs.

This juxtaposition perhaps stems from Kuwait’s marrying of Islamism with oil-wealth, mostly traded with Western superpowers. Upon independence from Britain in 1961, Sheikh Abdullah assumed head of state, adopting the title of Emir. The large revenues from oil production allowed independent Kuwait to build up its economic infrastructure and institute educational and social welfare programmes.

In the early 1990s, the emir established a National Assembly (Majlis), which placed limits on the power of the ruling family. Since then, the national assembly has clashed several times with the emir and the cabinet (which is still dominated by the al-Sabah family) over misuse of state funds and poor management of the all-important oil industry. Underlying these disputes is the growing impression that the ageing and increasingly infirm al-Sabah clan is no longer capable of running the country. However, they continue to dominate Kuwaiti policies.

Surrounded by three major Middle Eastern powers, the main threat to the country came from the renewal of Iraqi territorial claims over Kuwait (along with the overdue repayment of some US$40-60 billion on the part of Iraq), which led to the Iraqi invasion of Kuwait in 1990. The Kuwaitis later recovered their country by virtue of a US-led, UN-backed multinational military force.

After a period of euphoria, the Kuwaitis had to address a number of difficult questions; the future security of the country was dealt with by the signing of defence and security pacts with the USA, the UK and Kuwait’s Gulf allies. More recently, Kuwait was one of the first countries to join Operation Iraqi Freedom following the US-led war against Iraq, and provided aid and support during Iraq’s (ongoing) process of reconstruction.

17,818 sq km (6,880 sq miles).

2.7 million (UN estimate 2005).

151.53 per sq km.

Kuwait City. Population: 1.2 million (UN estimate 2003).

Traditional Arab monarchy. Gained full independence from the UK in 1961.

Arabic, but English is widely understood, especially in commerce and industry.

95% Muslim (mostly of the Sunni sect), with Christian and Hindu minorities.

GMT + 3.

Handshaking is the customary form of greeting. It is quite likely that a visitor will be invited to a Kuwaiti’s home, but entertaining is also conducted in hotels and restaurants. A small gift promoting the company, or representing your own country, is always welcome. The visitor will notice that most Kuwaitis wear the national dress of long white dishdashes and white headcloths, and that many women wear yashmaks. It is important for women to dress modestly according to Islamic law. Men do not usually wear shorts in public and should not go shirtless.

All other Islamic rules and customs must be respected. Convicted users of narcotics can expect to receive a sentence of up to five years’ imprisonment, plus a heavy fine. ‘No Smoking’ signs are posted in many shops. It is greatly appreciated if visitors learn at least a few words of Arabic. Homosexuality is illegal, as is any public affection between men and women. Cohabitation is also illegal. The import and use of drugs, alcohol, pork products and obscene material are forbidden and can lead to imprisonment.

240 volts AC, 50Hz; single phase. UK-type flat three-pin plugs are used.

Prime Minister Sheikh Nasser Muhammed al-Ahmed al-Sabah.

Sheikh Sabah al-Ahmed al-Jaber al-Sabah since 2006.