The media depiction of Iraq is of a place where humanity is found at its most ugly; a land of violent insurgency, kidnappings and religious intolerance and extremism. Yet this is also where humanity at its most tremendous once lived.

The core of modern Iraq was Mesopotamia, at the heart of the Sumerian, Babylonian and Assyrian empires between the seventh century BC and AD100. Many great civilisations were cradled in often verdant arms here - amidst huge and unforgiving desert terrain snakes stupendous rivers such as the Euphrates and Tigris. This country supposedly contained the glorious Garden of Eden and Babylon’s bountiful Hanging Gardens.

Ancient Baghdad was a focal point of learning, a major stop along the Silk Road. The museums of Iraq were once testament to these cultural learnings, crammed with astonishing artefacts and relics, but sadly many of these were damaged or looted following the conflict.

However, Iraq has been blighted by resurgent conflict: from the Arab Caliphate to Mongols, and from the Timur Empire to the Ottoman Empire. In 1920, the Hashemite Amir Faisal ibn Hussain was proclaimed king; independence came in 1932. In 1958, the Hashemite Dynasty disintegrated via murder and coup. Iraq’s final coup in recent history came in 1968, bringing the Ba’ath Party to power.

In 1979, Saddam Hussein became president and party leader of the Ba’ath Party. Iraqis hoped to resolve a long-running territorial dispute with Iran over the Shatt al-Arab waterway, and a full-scale invasion of Iran was launched in 1980. The war degenerated into one of attrition, lasting until 1988, when the two exhausted nations sued for peace.

Despite minor territorial gains, the Iraqi economy was crippled and incurred an enormous foreign debt, mainly owed to neighbouring Kuwait. Insistent Kuwaiti demands for repayment, Iraq’s historical claim over Kuwaiti territory, and a dispute over oil reserves provided the main pretext for the Iraqi invasion of Kuwait in 1990. The US-led response to the invasion, with firm backing from the UN, ensured that Iraq suffered a massive defeat. The Iraqi regime was seriously threatened by armed opposition elements among the Shia of southern Iraq and the Kurds in the north. However, the superior firepower of Iraqi troops and the Western refusal to provide effective backing for the rebels resisted this.

Thereafter, the USA and others used several means to constrain Iraq, such as a complete trade embargo - excepting a strictly controlled regimen of oil sales with which the Iraqi government could buy food and medicine. Arguably, ordinary Iraqis were worst hit by such sanctions. A few years later, the USA would lead the war against Iraq that has generated such fiercely mixed reactions, from relief that Hussein’s brutal regime was toppled, to anger at the alleged existence of weapons of mass destruction and Hussein’s alleged connections with Al-Qaeda.

With time, it is hoped the shackles of war will be dismantled, and Iraq shall pave itself a future as grand as was its past.

Note: Iraq continues to undergo a period of transition following the end of the US-led war against Saddam Hussein’s regime in March/April 2003. Most of the country’s political, social, physical and economic infrastructures have, by and large, been destroyed and need to be rebuilt, are in the process of being so, or have only just initiated recovery. As a result of the uncertain situation, some of the information in this guide cannot be relied upon. All travel to Iraq is ill-advised and visas are currently only being issued to aid workers, jourmalists and certain business people. Any nationals travelling to Iraq for essential reasons should register their presence with their embassy.

438,317 sq km (169,235 sq miles).

27 million (CIA estimate 2006).

61.6 per sq km.

Baghdad. Population: 5.7 million (2006 estimate).

Iraqi Transitional Government. 

80% Arabic (official). Other languages spoken include Kurdish, Persian, Chaldean, Assyrian and Armenian. English is quite widely spoken in urban centres.

Islam. Muslims make up 95% of the population, with considerably more Shiites than Sunni. Others are Christians who belong to various sects, including Chaldeans, Assyrians, Syrian and Roman Catholics, Orthodox Armenians and Jacobites. Other religious minorities are the Yezidis, often called devil worshippers, and the Sabaeans, or Mandeans, who are followers of John the Baptist.

GMT + 3 (GMT + 4 from 1 April to 1 October).

Owing to a long and varied history, Iraq is a culturally rich country. Today, traditional Islamic culture predominates, with Koranic law playing an active role in the day-to-day life of the country, and visitors should be careful to respect this and act accordingly. Visitors should always address their hosts by full name and title. Traditional Arab hospitality is followed as a rule, in accordance with religious law. Conservative and discreet dress should be worn in observance of local Islamic laws.

Photography: There is a need for extreme caution when photographing anything of a sensitive nature. This includes photographs of local people (the Muslim religion does not allow the representation of human or animal images in any form); and, most importantly, any government installations, buildings or indeed anything else that may be considered off-limits to visitors. If in any doubt, do not take a photo.

230 volts AC, 50Hz. Various two- and three-pin plugs are in use. Electricity supplies were severely affected in the recent conflict and are still unreliable.

Prime Minister Jawad al-Maliki since 2006.

President Jalal Talabani since 2005.