The national airlines are Garuda Indonesia (GA) (website: www.garuda-indonesia.com) and Merpati Nusantara Airlines (MZ) (website: www.merpati.co.id).

Rp100,000 from Jakarta and Denpasar; Rp75,000 from other airports; transit passengers continuing their journey on the same day, and infants under the age of 2 are exempt.

Java: Jakarta (CGK) (Soekarno-Hatta) is 20km (13 miles) northwest of Jakarta city centre (journey time – 45 minutes). To/from the airport: A bus goes to the city every 30 to 60 minutes. Buses leave Jakarta from Gambir railway station and from Rawamangun, Blok M and Pasar Minguu bus stations. Taxis are also available to the city centre. Facilities: Banks/bureaux de change, a post office, duty-free shops, gift shops, restaurants, snack bars, car hire and medical/vaccination facilities.

Bali: Denpasar (DPS) (Ngurah Rai), 13km (8 miles) southwest of Denpasar city centre, is the main airport on Bali (journey time – 30 minutes). To/from the airport: A bus goes to the city centre. Taxis are available to the city and to Kuta, Urud, Nusadua and Sanur. Facilities: Restaurant/bar, newsagent, bank, post office and car hire.

Note: For a full list of the air- and seaports which may be used to enter and exit Indonesia, see the website of the Embassy of the Republic of Indonesia in the UK (see Contact Addresses).

Main ports: Belawan (Medan), Dumai, and Padang on Sumatra.

High-speed ferries run between Sumatra and Malaysia. The most popular route is Belawan (Medan)–Penang (journey time – 4 hours), operated by Langkawi Ferry (tel: (61) 452 1111; website: www.langkawi-ferry.com). There are also services between Dumai–Malacca, Mandalo (Sulawesi), and The Philippines.

Many cruise lines serve Indonesia.

There is a daily sea and rail service between Belawan and Penang (west Malaysia) operated by National Railroad of Indonesia.

Indonesia’s international land borders are between Kalimantan and the Malaysian states of Sarawak and Sabah on the island of Borneo, and Papua and Papua New Guinea. There are no road links with Sabah and the few (poorly maintained) roads to Sarawak are not recognised as gateways to Indonesia.

Indonesia has a good internal air system linking most of the larger towns to Jakarta. Domestic operators include Garuda Indonesia (GA) (website: www.garuda-indonesia.com), AirAsia (QZ) (website: www.airasia.com), and Merpati Nusantara Airlines (MZ) (website: www.merpati.co.id).

Asean Air Pass: offers special fares on domestic flights and gives access to varying numbers of cities depending on the ticket bought. Passes must be bought from Garuda Indonesia (tel: (020) 7467 8600, in the UK; website: www.garuda-indonesia.com) outside Indonesia.

Main ports: Padang Bai and Benoa (Bali), Tanjung Priok (Jakarta), Belawan (Medan) and Sekupang (Batam).

PELNI (tel: (21) 421 1921; website: www.pelni.com), the state-owned shipping company, has luxurious passenger liners serving all the main ports across the archipelago. Foreign cruise liners also operate on an irregular basis. Luxury cruise ships offer trips to various destinations, including the eastern islands (leaving from Bali). For further details, contact the Indonesia Tourism Promotion Office (see Contact Addresses).

The train operator in Indonesia is PT Kereta Api (tel: 424 1370; website: www.infoka.kereta-api.com). There are three classes of travel, Eksecutif (Executive), Bisnis (Business) and Ekonomi (Economy), but first-class exists only on principal expresses. There is some air-conditioned accommodation. Children under three travel free; children aged three to seven pay half fare.

In Sumatra, trains connect Belawan, Medan and Tanjong Balai/Rantu Prapet (two or three trains daily) in the north, and Palembang and Panjang (three trains daily) in the south. An extensive rail network runs throughout Java. The modern, air-conditioned Argo Bromo Anggrek service, which is Eksecutif class only, with refreshments included, links Jakarta and Surabaya; it departs daily and nightly. There are also other express services. Between Jakarta and Bandung there is a train every one to two hours, Eksecutif class (journey time – about 3 hours) and then twice-daily trains on to Surabaya.

Traffic drives on the left. Nearly half of the road network is paved. There are good road communications within Java and, to a lesser extent, on Bali and Sumatra. The other islands have poor road systems. Chauffeur-driven cars are widely available.

Bus: The Big Bird chartered buses (tel: 798 9000; website: www.bluebirdgroup.com/charter_bus.html) provide regular services between most towns. Indonesia is the land of jam karet (literally ‘rubber time’), and complicated journeys involving more than a single change should not be attempted in a day. Bus fares are relatively low; most are fixed, with a higher price for the air-conditioned buses. There are night buses on a number of long-distance routes; pre-booking is essential. Visitors should note that buses can be extremely crowded, and that drivers are reckless.

Taxi: Widely available in cities and towns.

Car hire: Available from a number of international and local companies.

Regulations: Speed limits are usually 30-40kph (19-25mph) on inner city streets, 60-70kph (37-43mph)on inter-city roads and 80-100 kph (50-62mph) on highways depending on the territory.

Documentation: An International Driving Permit is required.

Alternative transport: Rickshaws include the motorised bajaj, which seats two passengers, with the driver in front; and the becak, which is pedal-powered by a rider sitting behind two passengers. Fares should be negotiated in advance. Motorcycles and bicycles can be hired; for motorcycles, an International Driving Permit is recommended and a helmet should be worn. Bemos and opelets are communal minibuses; fares should be negotiated in advance.

Jakarta is the only city with an established conventional bus service of any size, and it has a comprehensive network.