Armenia was the first country to adopt Christianity as its state religion in AD301. To explore Armenia is to delve into history: from Erebuni, an archaeological site studded with over 200 ancient rock engravings; and Ughtasar, an ancient fortress perched on top of a mountainous plateau; to countless monasteries and churches embedded in dramatic landscape.

Yerevan, the capital of Armenia, is one of the oldest cities in the world, founded nearly 2,800 years ago during the time of ancient Babylon. Although most of the old town was demolished in the 1930s, it is now decked out in more modern Soviet design. Indeed, Yerevan represents the very crux of Armenia: withholding both its ancient origins, a turbulent passage through time and now the forging of new beginnings.

Despite the violence of its history, Armenia is beautiful. Lake Sevan is the largest lake in the Caucasus, much praised for its pure waters and stunning setting, whilst North Dilijhan is a resort touted for its medicinal mineral waters. Touristic infrastructure is continually improving and there is greater opportunity to hike and horse ride every year.

Armenian character is key: the towns and cities are relics of endurance. It is the character of the locals that leads them to proudly inform visitors that Winston Churchill always insisted on Armenian brandy in preference to French. So follow their advice and raise a glass to Armenia.

29,743 sq km (11,484 sq miles).

3 million (UN estimate 2005).

100.8 per sq km.

Yerevan. Population: 1.1 million (UN estimate 2005).

Republic. Gained independence from the Soviet Union in 1991.

Armenian. Russian is usually understood, but rarely used; Kurdish is sometimes used in broadcasting as 56,000 Kurds inhabit Armenia.

94% Armenian Apostolic Church, with Catholic and Protestant communities and a Russian Orthodox minority. Armenia is the oldest Christian nation in the world, its conversion dating from the year AD 301. The Armenian Apostolic Church developed separately from both the Catholic and Orthodox branches of Christianity.

GMT + 3 (GMT + 4 from last Sunday in March to Saturday before last Sunday in October).

Almost all entertaining takes place in private homes, and guests may find themselves subjected to overwhelming hospitality and generosity, as well as being expected to eat enormously and participate in endless toasts. Visitors invited to an Armenian’s home should arrive bearing some kind of small gift, such as flowers and alcohol (preferably imported) or chocolates. Handshaking is the normal form of greeting. Business cards are invariably exchanged at any kind of official meeting and not infrequently on first meeting people socially as well. Conversation tends to be highly politicised, and guests may be well advised to avoid expressing strong opinions. Homosexuality is now decriminalised but is still an unacceptable lifestyle for many Armenians, and discretion should be exercised when in public. Women tend to be less retiring than in nearby Muslim countries, and can usually dress in normal western-style clothing (especially in the capital), although female visitors may wish to avoid wearing short skirts and shorts.

Photography: Refrain from photographing sites such as military bases equipment and installations. Also be aware of cultural sensitivities when photographing churches and other religious sites.

220 volts AC, 50Hz. European plugs with two round pins are used.

Serzh Sarkisyan since 2007.

President Robert Kocharyan since 1998.