Mediterranean beaches, sangria in the sun and paella by the plateful. Southern Spain has long been a popular holiday destnation, but tourists are increasingly turning to the fascinations of another Spain, far removed from the high-rise developments lining the Costa del Sol.

Spain is a treasure chest of unforgettable scenery. Separating Spain from France, the snow-capped Pyrenees, as well as having breathtaking views, offer resorts like La Molina and Panticosa with plenty of opportunities for skiing. In the north, the winding rivers and lush, green forests of Galicia present a picture not usually associated with Spain, and in complete contrast to the Moorish-influenced south, Galician culture traces its routes to a Celtic origin. Everywhere are reminders of Spain’s rich and varied past, from the Alhambra in Granada to Don Quixote’s windmills in La Mancha.

Old mixes with new in cities such as Toledo, Barcelona, Salamanca and the capital, Madrid, as celebrated museums, galleries and baroque churches rub shoulders with blaring bars and thumping discos.

What will never change is the Spaniards’ passion for partying. Snack on tapas as you skip from bar to bar, before heading off to enjoy Spain’s infamous nightlife. Then revitalise the senses - Spain’s cultural heritage brims with flamenco, painting, opera, literature, sport and flamboyant, colourful fiestas.

Spain was a dictatorship under General Franco until his death in 1975. The authoritarian regime was then transformed into a democratic government with King Juan Carlos I as head of state. Modern Spain is a successful democracy with a lot of autonomy given to directly elected regional authorities, although the tension between the state and the separatist movement in the Basque region in the north remains a political problem.

As bargains abound amid intense airline competition, there has never been a better time to visit Spain. Just soak up the atmosphere - you will not be disappointed.

Leon Gray

505,988 sq km (195,363 sq miles); includes Spanish North Africa.

44.1 million (official figures 2005).

87.15 per sq km.

Madrid. Population: 5.5 million (2005).

Parliamentary monarchy since 1978.

Spanish (Castillian), Catalan (in the northeast), Galician (in the northwest) and Basque (in the north).

There is no official religion, but the majority of the population is Roman Catholic.

Mainland Spain/Balearics: GMT + 1 (GMT + 2 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October).
The Canary Islands: GMT (GMT + 1 from last Sunday in March to last Sunday in October).

Spanish life has undergone rapid change in recent years and many of the stricter religious customs are giving way to more modern ways, particularly in the cities and among women. Nonetheless, many old customs, manners and traditions have not faded and hospitality, chivalry and courtesy remain important. Handshaking is the customary form of greeting. Normal social courtesies should be observed when visiting someone’s home. If invited to a private home, a small gift is appreciated. Flowers are only sent for special celebrations. Conservative casual wear is widely acceptable. Some hotels and restaurants encourage men to wear jackets. A black tie is only necessary for very formal occasions and is usually specified if required. Outside resorts, scanty beachwear should be confined to beach or poolside. The evening meal is taken late, generally 2100-2200. The Spanish have two family names; in conversation only the first should be used. A law banning smoking in offices, shops, schools, hospitals, cultural centres and on public transport was introduced on 1 January 2006.

220 or 225 volts AC, 50Hz. Generally, round two-pin plugs and screw-type lamp fittings are in use.

José Luis Rodríguez Zapatero since 2004.

King Juan Carlos I since 1975.